Friday, November 1 2019, enroute Toogoodoo Creek, SC

We were underway at 11:10 Friday Morning headed to Toogoodoo Creek on Younges Island SC to visit with another DeFever 44 Owner who lives on that creek. A distance of only 27 miles so the later departure would still allow us (in of our slow boat) to arrive with plenty of time for a brief visit over wine and tasty snacks and a tour of their lovely home and Summer Breeze, their DeFever 44.

Bruce, Rosie, Larry and Erin

In the low country of SC there are many Sea Islands some with Indian names other named after, kings, queens and some that may reflect the English Owners that settled there from Barbados in the founding of the colonies. Toogoodoo was certainly one of those named by Indians of the area.

It is a deep and wide natural creek with depths in excess of 10 feet at low water for the two miles to our anchorage. I was amazed at the depths and width and surprisingly at the huge school of Dolphin that had come upstream to dine. 

ahead of us

just finished a complete jump out of the water

look carefully. the dolphin in the pic is completely out of the water

playful 

just checking us out

Just checking us out

They played with us on out departure like they were celebrating our presence with flips entirely out of the water and swimming directly next to the bow of the boat as we motored out of the creek. We were underway at 0800 and rejoined the ICW on the way to historic town of Beaufort SC, close to the Marine Corps Recruit Training Base at Paris Island, SC.

We arrived at the Beaufort Town Docks at 1620 and moored next to the Dock Masters office. Erin said she wanted to do some sightseeing in the town so we will stay here two days.

Charleston, SC October 23 thru Nov 1, 2019 Moored at The Harborage at Ashley Marina

This was our first extended down-time. Because of the hospitality of another classmate, Joe Nuttall we were able to get a very excellent slip at the marina and just one slip away from his yacht. It was the catalyst to a splendid and fun filled week for Erin, Abby and I. While in Charleston we did many things but the first purpose was to be her by boat for the Homecoming Weekend at The Citadel, Larry’s Alma Mater. Each of the last 6 years the men from “R” Company, Larry’s Company from the Class of 1968, get together and bond once again. With the reunion dinner at a classmate’s home in Mount Pleasant SC, A great Tailgate and a win at the Football game against Mercer University the weekend was all a great success the first three days were all about that. The next two days were visiting with Sister Christina who still lives there, visiting tourist sites and taking a Carriage Ride. 

Larry’s former Employer, Continental Terminals, Inc. opened a Coffee Warehouse in North Charleston to support the new coffee Roaster that Starbucks had built just north of Charleston. Larry had the opportunity to identify, to his company a gentleman that was perfect to be the new General Manager. Mickey Baldwin a native of Charleston and already a well known personality in the Port of South Carolina was perfect for the role. Mickey’s success and excellent management of the facility allowed the company to grow and firmly establish itself in the Port of South Carolina as the leading coffee warehouse in the area. 

 Larry made a side visit to a true Coffee Trading office in the heart of Charleston called Balzac Brothers Coffee trading Co. where he met the management of the firm who had become a premium customer of the Continental Terminals Coffee warehouse that Mickey ran. Further Mickey treated Erin and I to dinner at a new restaurant on John’s Island called Royal Tern. The food was super delicious and I have never has a grilled flounder so perfectly cooked.

A casual cookout at the Charleston yacht Club with Joe Nuttall and friend Tracey gave a prestigious lift to the image of our yachting experience. Joe seems to know everyone in town and he was quick to introduce us to prominent figures and his long term friends. It was fun sitting on the yacht club deck and admiring the boats on the waterfront at all three of the marinas that are clustered between the two bridges on the Ashley River. It is amazing how a simple meal of Hot Dogs and Hamburgers can enhance the bond between old friends and get to know new ones. We enjoyed our time with them and really look forward to getting to know Tracey better as time goes along.

A really good South Carolina Low country BBQ dinner with Sister Christina and her husband Johnny at Dukes BBQ on James Island gave us time to get caught-up on the lives we lead and the goings-on with our kids. Christina makes crafts that she sells at seasonal craft shows. She had brought a few of these with her and made gifts of them to us. Highlighting the gifts was a crotched comforter which she blended colors to match the color scheme on the boat as well as made a smaller one for Abby of the same color. We loved the gifts and trust me, Abby took right to it on her bed as it was going to be cooler the next few days after we depart.

Our departure day finally came and so did a swift incoming current and NE winds. Quite a challenge faced us to get out of the tight marina in which we were moored. Complicating the situation were two mullion dollar plus yachts that were in moored directly across from us and where we had to transit. Larry delayed the departure by three hours in hopes the current would slack as it reached high tide. Also the wind was supposed to shift that morning and lessen in intensity. Nonetheless it was going to be a tight squeeze, a very tight squeeze. When we finally departed we had an audience that included the hired Captain of the million dollar yachts and others. Larry sounded the “change of status” signal on the ships horn to alert nearby vessels and owners. Then in a masterful series of moves and use of the engines and bow thruster Larry maneuvered Serendipity around the tight corner and down the narrow yacht-lined channel to the open Ashley River. Erin who was on the stern giving Larry advice on clearances as the stern passed the closest yacht told Larry later, “the hired yacht captain of the million dollar yacht applauded” as Serendipity cleared the tight spot. Ask Larry about it sometime.

Here are some pics

Class of '68 classmates

Ladies with the Classmates

on a harbor cruise

The

Painted row in Charleston

The round Church

John C. Calhoun Tomb

sunset over marina

At Balzac Brothers Coffee Trading

the Coffee trading floor

old Coffee roasters

Ledger of coffee trades and sales before WW1

Tiki bar with outboard Motor

the marina is tight I am in top center with blue tom

Homecoming football game

October 23 thru October 31 2019 In Ashley Marina, Charleston, SC

A lot has been happening. Homecoming 2019, dinner with classmates from R Company Class of 1968, Homecoming Football Game against Mercer College, Tailgating, Sightseeing, Eating delicious foods, visiting with family, visiting with the GM of Continental Terminals Coffee Warehouse in Charleston and doing some relaxing. Abby has been great and less stressed than Erin. We do some chores, cleaning and socializing with others in the marina. More stories and pictures to follow but this should get everybody caught-up on the travels.  Abby says Hi!

Abby very happy in her lift sling and on the crochet blanket my sister made for her

Schedule ahead.

Nov 1--Visiting another Defever 44 owner on Toogoodoo River 25 miles south of Charleston. At anchor.
Nov 2--anchoring in harbor at Beaufort, SC
Nov 3-- heading to Savannah GA

October 23 enroute Charleston SC

Today was a day that we have been anticipating with some trepidation and excitement. On one hand we are going to arrive in Larry’s home town and reconnect with other men from his Citadel Company yet on the other hand there are large stretches of VERY shallow water. Even though the Army Corps of Engineers (ACE) has dredged in the spring the silting has filled back in the channels on the route to our destination. Our two days in  McClleanville, SC were worthwhile but it was time to say good-bye to the shrimping fleet and the welcome of Leland Oil Company.

 Erin wanted to wait for good daylight before leaving as the shallows were one thing but to become stuck in the dark was a bit unnerving, to say the least. 

First Light at McClellanville October 23

I was confident that we would be underway safely and not go aground. For the last two weeks we have been watching others who are ahead of us encountering very shallow depth just south of McClleanville as well as around the Isle of Palms as we would near Charleston. The ACE hired a dredge company to re-dredge the areas south of where we have been for the last two days and they were still working the channel.  

 That meant not only did we have to deal with the shallow water but also the dredge taking up half the channel. It was making Erin nervous.

We prepared the night before by rigging all the lines to be loosened from the boat because we knew we would not have line handlers when we departed. Plans were ready and we settled down for a quiet evening.

Erin got me up at 5:30 (Yawn!) so we could be ready…..(did I say Yawn?) First light would not be till at least 7:18 a.m. so why were we up this early? Nonetheless, we recovered the power cord, got the generator on-line and had coffee. Finally there was enough light for Erin and we were underway. Depths in the McClleanville channel were 6 ft till the mouth of their creek. There is was 4 ft but we coasted slowly over it and reentered the ICW. Immediately in front of us was the dredge Little Princess but they were not yet dredging for the day. The captain (or mate) answered the VHF radio and advised us that if we stayed close to him as we passed we would find the deep water. He also told us the other dredge was about a mile further and we would not have any problem with him either. We passed close but still only in 5 feet of water. (We draw 4 ft 6 in) for the first time encounter he strong currents that are characteristic on the area.

Once past this restriction the trip took us thru wider deeper waters and past sand bars and salt marshes. It was deeper but tricky as passing the inlets from the ocean the currents would offer some influence with the outgoing tide. Often the boat would swerve off- course and I would have to over correct to stay on track. In fact at one inlet there was a trawler aground that missed the turn and got stuck and before he could get off the tide went down far enough he could not get off and had to stay heeled-over till the next high tide.

After an uneventful passage behind Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island and passing under the Ben Sawyer Bridge we entered Charleston harbor.

It was nostalgic and a warm feeling came over me in the warm breeze and bright sunlight. I had a moment of fleeting childhood memories as I passed the end of Sullivan’s Island and remembered many fishing trips there with buddies I grew-up with. The city skyline came into view and I spent several moments savoring the beautiful Arthur Ravenel Jr. Memorial Cooper River Bridge. Every time I see it I have many memories of crossing the Cooper River on each of the three huge bridges that crossed the wide river. If you have never driven them you could not understand the passage of time and evolution to the magnificent towering bridge it is now.

The trip across the harbor was also a cascade of memories of my hometown. Ft Moultrie on the north side of the entrance, Ft Sumter to the east, Ft Johnson on the south and Castle Pinckney to the west. 

All these embattlements played a role in the American Revolution and mostly in the War of Northern Aggression! (Ahem!) The City skyline is as it always has been; except for church spires lies low about 3 miles away.  One of the names that natives of the city use to refer to Charleston is, “The Holy City” which has historical significance in the founding of the city which was known for its religious tolerance. The tall steeples of St Phillips and St Michaels are reminders of that history.

We passed thru the widest part and joined the channel up the Ashley River, one of the two large rivers that make the City of Charleston a penninsula. Actually, to us Charlestonians, it is the Ashley and the Cooper Rivers that come together in Charleston Harbor to form the Atlantic Ocean. (Really!)

Larry made a phone call to a Citadel Classmate who had made arrangements for us to use an empty slip near his at the Ashley Marina which was close to downtown Charleston. The currents in both the rivers can run as much as three knots and during the rainy season has been known to reach 7 knots. As can be seen from the Chart Plotter the current can add 3 to 4 knots to our speed of 7 knots when we are traveling with the current.

It was really a “trip!” Not so much fun getting into the slip however as it made life tough when we had to back into the slip. That would put the current on the beam and that set the boat sideways and our first attempt failed. We made it in safely on the second attempt and after securing lines we were greeted by our friend Joe Nuttall. Joe’s boat was one slip away.

We settled into the routine of hooking-up power fresh water and putting out the boarding ladder. We had not planned any activity the rest of the day so it would be the first of 9 nights in the marina and would be the longest stop-over other than the time in Key West. Next on the agenda would be The Citadel Homecoming weekend, dinner with classmates, football game, tailgate party and doing a little sightseeing. It was a very good day and celebrated with a beautiful sunset across the Ashley.

More images from McClellanville, SC

October 21 and 22 McClellanville SC  from Osprey Marina

Nestor has passed and out three day stay at Osprey Marina has also come to an end. Today we would pass thru the man made cut that started behind Myrtle Beach

and would take us to the upper reaches of the Waccamaw River and to Winyah Bay as we passed by Georgetown SC. The destination was McClellanville,SC.

We were underway at 0730 in a light cloud cover with no wind as we said good-bye to the well protected berth at Osprey Marina and entered the canal. It was here that we began to encounter the large cypress forests seemingly growing right out of the water. There was deep water right up to the shores and navigation was not difficult. The pictures will offer a glimpse into the passage of the canal and the river on the way to Georgetown and Winyah Bay.

The sun broke thru the clouds about 10 a.m. and soon we were joined by more Dolphin and again signs of civilization as the upper Waccamaw River was pretty barren of dwellings and services. The wide bay was easy to transit as we gained sight of the huge steel Plant that was working furiously if

the huge plume of steam rising from the plant is any indication.

Soon we entered another man made cut called the Estherville Minim Creek Canal. Here the Cypress forests gave way to large coastal marshlands in The Cape Romaine Nature Wildlife Preserve. There were seemingly miles and miles of marshes which had canals and earthen redoubts separating many areas. It was obvious that these were once colonial rice fields. Rice was the “gold Crop” of Coastal South Carolina for man many decades. The traveling got a little tricky here also as we negotiated two well known intersections on the ICW. One was the North Santee River and the other about one mile further was the South Santee. Yes we even saw dolphins in these shallow waters miles from the ocean.

These rivers flow thru the low country of SC to the ocean and drain a large portion f the old rice parries and upper reaches where the cypress swamps are . These rivers stretch quite far inland as the rivers are crossed when driving I-95.

There were a few other boats in the waterway today but the rest of the trip was unremarkable. The arrival in McClellanville SC during an incoming tide. We planned on staying there for at least one night as Charleston was just 30 miles from here and also had a reputation n of the best diesel prices in the ICW. The whole port of McClellanville is dedicated to the shrimping and fishing industries and is home to more than a dozen working shrimpers. The prices are so low because the boats all get their fuel there. 

The Leland Oil Company owns the piers and built more than they needed for the shrimpers and let yachts tie up there as long as space is available. We did buy 100 gals fuel there. That is the first fuel we bought since departing VA some 500 miles ago. At the moment we have 750 gals aboard of the 900 full capacity.

Another feature of the town of McClellanville is historical from the earliest days of the colonies to the present day if conveys a true small-town warmth of the deep south. The tree lined streets with overhanging live Oaks draped with Spanish moss are truly the image of how it was in the beginning but with dirt or oyster shell roads. Some of the homes along Water St. were built in the 1800’s and are still occupied. In a small park on the corner of Water Street is a Historical monument, a 1000 year old sprawling live oak tree and dedications to past personages who inhabited the town. The old general store is a seafood restaurant called T.W. Grahams and has a history all the way back to the founding of the town when it served the rice, seafood and cotton trades selling merchandise to the growers and watermen of the day. There are B&B’s here and would be worth a weekend to TRULY VISIT a real taste and view of “The Old South.” There is no place else you will see this better than in McClellanville South Carolina. Here are some pics of the town.

typical tree lined street in McClellanville

Anti-Bellum Home

Anti-Bellum Home built 1861

Tree house on a single branch of Live Oak tree

At the wharf where the shrimpers, oystermen and clamers sell their catches is a real, I mean real, seafood market. Everything is fresh Caught. The owners also make Clam and shrimp dip that is TO DIE FOR! OMG it is good. Bought two to take to the boat. It is rich tasty and a little on a cracker goes a long way to satisfy that seafood itch.

We stayed two nights because I did not want to get to Charleston before our slip would be available. The quiet of this little town is enchanting and sunsets over the trees calming. Day is done, Rest well travelers.

Tomorrow October 23 we are on the way to Charleston, my childhood home and roughly ½ way to the Florida Keys.